November 15, 2005

Hi Folks,

Took the 5.5-hour bus trip from Jinghong (capital of Xishuanbanna) to Mengla, en route to the Laos border. It's therefore appropriate to reflect on the sights and people of Southern China.

• First of all, I've enjoyed every minute of the past 28 days. Met many wonderful and helpful people along the way, few of whom spoke English. Most of the Chinese were ethnically Han, or Dai, but a few were from one of the many other minority cultures in the area. Just saying "Hello" in any language is sure to bring a smile to every person you meet on the street.
• Didn't meet as many backpackers as contemplated. Met many more Chinese tourists than expected.
• The latter grouping tends to be somewhat rowdy, but with big hearts. And they are from all four corners of China! Met PePe on the Li River cruise between Guilin and Yangshuo.
• The Chinese are proud to be Chinese.
• The Chinese love their cultural heritage, but are in a hurry to tear everything down and rebuilt it so it looks modern. Don't wait -- see China now!
• It seems everywhere we traveled by road we could see a new highway under construction. And traveling on those new highways is a dream. The Jinghong - Menghun trip was listed as 2 to 2.5 hours by bus, but took less than one on a new highway.
• Ate many a delicious meal for less than 50 cents. But that jumps to $5 or more if you want a menu in English, and sit inside a "western style" restaurant.

• Prices are not generally marked on products. Sometimes, even when prices are clearly marked on a product, bargaining is still possible. Case in point: Had to replace my card reader, so went looking in Jinghong. Finally found one combined with a USB 2.0 hub, marked Y120 ($15). Ended up paying Y80.
• Internet cafes can have hundreds upon hundreds of computers on line. Possibly more than 80% are used for gaming, but with hundreds of cities on line, that is still a lot of users asking questions and learning about the world beyond. This gal was enthusiastic in getting us on-line. She proudly asked us questions using an English-Chinese-English translation program on the computer at the doorway to the Internet cafe.

While seeing Toni off at the airport last Saturday, I struck up a conversation with the Custom's Official. He was probably the most fluent Chinese speaker of English encountered on the trip, so I leaped at the opportunity to ask questions about life in China.

After studying English in a college in Kunming, Yunnan Province, he taught English in that school system. Deciding that was not what he wanted to do with the rest of his life, he quit and took a job as a tour guide in Jinghong, closer to his home town. Then he owned a restaurant for less than a year, before finally settling down as a customs official. (Under present rules, that will permit him to retire before the age of 60.)

The Jinghong area has four or five large rubber tree plantations owned by the State, but the rest of the acreage planted in rubber trees is under private ownership.

Private ownership? If a (Chinese) person buys a parcel of land in the country, can he do anything he wants with it? Build a home? Apartment? Factory? "All yes, but in the later case, the regional environmental board must approve." If the type of factory has the potential to pollute the air and damage local crops, it may not be permitted.

Spoke with an Italian that is working in Beijing with the EU environmental overseer organization. She related that Beijing had just forced a work stoppage on construction of 10 to 12 power generation plants (which are desperately needed) because the proper permits were not obtained. This case will be most interesting to follow, as it will be a litmus test for the government's resolve to become environmentally friendly.

Lower photo shows loose-knit group of Westerners taking a break at the temple on a hillside above the Market at Menghun.

Hope all's well! Keep the email coming, but if you press "REPLY", please strip my photos and text out of the response.

Bill