Taman Negara

visited 12 - 14 Nov 99

web version, with 
lots of photos.

View from platform along the Jungle Canopy Walk.
Prior Trav-E-Log: Melaka, Kuala Lumpur The jungle from 100 foot above the ground....
(Note:) This describes travel in S.E.Asia between
 Oct 16, 1999 and Jan 22, 2000.
Taman Negara is Malaysia's National Park, akin to Sequoia National Park or the Grand Teton in the USA, but with a Jungle theme. It can be reached in one day by taking an early morning 3 1/2 hour bus ride from Kuala Lumpur (near Titiwangsa subway stop) to Jerantut, and then a half hour taxi ride to Kuala Tembeling. From here, you travel 2 1/2 hours by river boat to the park headquarters (HQ), where you pay an entry fee and buy a camera pass if you want to expose your camera. In lieu of the pricey park lodgings, I stay in a dorm room in the village across the narrow river for 1/5 the price. (Must make up for the lost wallet.) My roommate is Roman Morales Garcia, an interesting Spaniard from the Canary Islands, whose claim to fame is writing a book about walking down the entire length of the Andes, all the way to Patagonia. He is now biking many select areas of South-East Asia, and thinking about his next book.

Maps showing the location of jungle trails are available at the park HQ for a reasonable fee. In the morning I strike out alone with my camera and hike one of the shorter trails in the patchy fog.  I stop at the crest of a hill, thinking I'm at the end of the trail, and remove several leaches. On the way back to camp, my stealthy footsteps flush three Vieillots Crested Firebacks just five feet ahead from the underbrush. Later, a ranger says most visitors to the park never see anything as wild as these, so I feel fortunate. He also tells me that the trail actually continued up to a better lookout. Next time. Highlights of the jungle trip were the Jungle Canopy Rope walk, the night-time nature walk, and seeing two hornbills from the riverboat when leaving. Unlike park brochures, many travel guidebooks warn tourists that if you go to the Taman Negara to see animals, you will be disappointed. Properly warned, I go to see the vegetation, and am delighted. The only detractor was the abundance of hungry leaches on the trails for a day after each rainfall, and it has been raining every day. On my next trip, though, I would like to spend several days at a remote blind, and venture deeper into the jungle. Hopefully, that visit will not be in the rainy season.

After two nights, Roman and I head out of the park on the same river boat. He collects his bike and heads for another jungle park, while I share a taxi to the next town, Mela, to catch the 'Jungle Train' to Kota Bharu.

(More photos of the National Park below.)

 Bill 

Monkeys in front of pricey cabins at Taman Negara Park

Bus Ticket, KL to Jerantut

Fog below the hilltop

Vieillots Crested Fireback

A stand of bamboo in the jungle

Photo Licence

Jungle LandscapeObstacles along the jungle pathPhotos shows a typical trail, and one reason you must watch every step you take in the jungle. A strong flashlight is needed to spot animals at night, as that is the most likely time to see them from the blinds set up in the park.

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Base of tree trunkThe base of this tree is 10 meters across - or 30 foot for the metrically challenged. I have always loved walking in the woods, but found it real special among these unfamiliar giants.

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Riverboat travel through virgin jungle.Thirty minutes of the river travel to the National Park is in virgin jungle on one side of the river. We also saw water buffalo and lots of kingfishers during the ride. The guides say that during drought, passengers must get out and push the boat through shallow regions, significantly increasing travel time. We won't have that problem, as it's been raining every day.

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Riverboat transportation supplies the National ParkA companion boat similar to ours leaves the park to pick up supplies -- requiring 5 to 6 hours for the round trip. This helps explain the high prices at the concession in the park.

 

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